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Beginner African Cichlid Care Methods
BEGINNER METHODS FOR AFRICAN CICHLID CARE
The methods of care for African Cichlids can vary, and it is vital that beginners to learn how to maintain ideal aquarium conditions. Once you have created the ideal environment for your African Cichlids, you may refer to the following guidelines for maintaining their nutritional and environmental needs.
Water Conditions
African Cichlids prefer a water pH within the range of 7.4 to 8.4. To achieve this, you may need to enhance your tank water with commercial “Cichlid Buffer” which can be purchased through any aquarium supplier. You’ll also need to use special Cichlid salts and trace elements for your fish to exhibit superior coloration, and provide anti bacterial conditions. Aquarium water can quickly deteriorate, and you’ll need to replace evaporated water regularly. A good filtration system is vital for optimum conditions to assist in the breakdown of bacteria, and to provide good water flow and movement. You’ll also need to use ammonia removers for superior water condition. Follow to the manual that comes with your filtration unit, and familiarize yourself with how to maintain it properly. Water temperature should range between 74- 82F.Monitor your aquarium heaters’ thermostat, to provide ideal water temperature.
Lighting
Lighting is necessary to view your fish in the evenings. It’s better to illuminate your tank from late afternoon until late evening, to better appreciate your aquarium. Full spectrum lighting
is best , and Arcadia tube bulbs are highly recommended. Avoid leaving your tank lit during the day. You may cause excessive algae problems.
Feeding
Feeding African Cichlids the right type of food is very important. Due to their extremely long intestinal tracts, it takes a long time for them to digest food. Once you have identified the four different dietary habits of African Cichlids, and know which species you maintain, you can purchase the correct food. Inappropriate foods will rot in their stomachs causing bloating, sickness and sometimes death. For this reason, foods with a large proportion of spirulina and vegetables are best. Frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp are also good for most species, but meats and live blackworms are not recommended. Researching specific foods for specific species is essential.
Aggression Control
It’s important to know that African Cichlids often exhibit aggression. Even the milder tempered Cichlids are aggressive compared to other species of tropical fish. Some species are more aggressive than others, but it’s difficult to generalize their behavior.
It’s not possible to control Cichlid aggression, but there are some things you can do to help reduce their aggressiveness. You may want to try lowering the water temperature slightly. Also focus on keeping the male population down, by learning how to identify males from females. Do not overstock you tank, and provide a variety of hiding places so that your Cichlids can establish their own territories. This should ensure a pleasant environment for your Cichlids to thrive in.
Your site gave me a lot of info—-Question is it true that you can’t mixed African Cichlids with South American Cichlids. Please reply
Thank you.
I have a 55 gallon tank that has been set up for a couple weeks. I’m almost ready to buy some Malawi cichlids, but I don’t know how to arrange my tank. If I could get some tips, they would be very helpful.
hi Harry
I have has similar questions re mixing different species as well as mixing cichlids with other tropicals to enhance the functionality within my tank.
With the result, that I’ve added a pleco to assist with the bottom feeding of all the food and plant debris.
I have found that mixing Lake Malawi species with Lake Tangykikan species quite distatrous as the latter are quite aggressive. Needless to say, I lost a pair of Lake Malawi’s due to this. I have seen a compatibilty chart at a good local pet shop here (I’m in Johannesburg, South Africa) which was very imformative. It had pics of the different fish, which meant that it could be used my the novist aquariust without having any knowledge of the scientific names.
I hope that this helps.
thanks for the info. There’s a lot more to learn, I know. More info please on starting a tank
This site also helped me greatly. What temperature should my tank be when I have Cichlids?
I have a new 290 liter tank. 1200mm long, 600mm high, 450mm wide. An undergravel filter, two Powerheads for air, a Dophin 1600 Bio-filter, a heater. Underneath the hood the water surface is covered with sliding glass panels. Fitted in the hood is 3 aquarium bulbs. The tank was filled with tapwater of excellent drinkable quality, added to that was the prescribed dosage of Nutrafin Water Conditioner Aqua Plus and also Nutrafin Cycle for new tanks. The filters and heater was running for a week before I started putting in fish. This was done in 3 batches over about 6 days.
I have 25 African cilchids - Malawies (varying sizes +- 1″ to 4″) and 2 s.catfish (1″ &1.5″). I was adviced by various people to overstock the tank to overcome aggressive nature of these fish.
The floor is a gravel & coral bed. Plenty of rock caves. Enough free open swimming space. One small mature log from an older fishtank for the benefit of the catfish. No plants at all.
They eat a variety of Daiichi frozen food and some Aquafin cilchid pellets, sinking Tetra pellets for the catfish.
I have a couple of Tetra test kits. I can’t get the ammonia en nitrite on the ideal levels. The nitrite and ammonia both stay in the beginning of the stress/danger zones. The Ph is about 8 and the water is hard(both ideal for malawies). Alkalinity is also in the ideal range. Nitrate is very low. Temperature is 28.5C
The first batch of fish was in obvious high stress (high nitrite readings and obvious stress signs) so I did a 50% water change and added more Nutrafin Cycle according to instructions. With the second batch of fish the dealer sold me a bottle Marc Weiss Rift Lake Vital which I added as prescribed by manufacturer. After that I did 2 more 20 - 30 % water changes to try get the water quality right. With 2nd water change I also added some fizzy Ammonia clear tablets from Jungle labs, yesterday I bought some Kent granular Ammonia sponge, that was put inside the bio-filter - all to no avail. I added a little salt, only about 30ml coarse food grade seasalt per water change. (I must mention the area where we live in the Western Cape of South Africa has realy exceptionally high quality tap water)
It is now 10 days since I’ve put the first batch of fish in. The fish doesn’t show signs of stress, but I’m worried that the water quality will cause stress.
your website really heled me alot but i need info on south african cichilds but thanks for your info
exellent site. I have just added an african convict to my established Malawi cichlid tank 80gallon. Will he cause, or be athreat to the others? please advise via e- mail. thanks
HOW OFTEN CAN ELECTRIC YELLOW CHICLIDS BREED? MY JUST HAD SOME FRY BUT I LOST THEM TO THE OTHER FISH SO HOW LONG DO I HAVE TO WAIT ?
Hello, I would like to know how many African Cichlids is recommended for a 55-gal tank. The filtering system is a Magnum 350 canister good for up to 75-gal. I recently purchased artificial resin reefs and plants is this recommended. Thanks, Mark.
Do you know what temputure a fishtank should be?
Generally, yes. African cichlids will claim terrritory and normally harass south american cichlids to death. You might be able to put a convict in there. The only problem is that if your tank is too small the african cichlids will kill the convict because there is not enough room to swim and the africans have teeth that do a lot of damage when they attack another fish. LOTS OF ROCKS AND OPEN SWIMMING SPACE IS A MUST>
How do you tell them apart female vs. male?
wat kind of salt minerals does the african cichlid need and where can it be found
so i bought a new 10gal tank. i’m a beginner at all of this so i’m not sure what to do about some things…
i bought my tank about a week ago, put in API aquarium salt (the recommended dose), API stress coat, and i let the water sit for a few days. i have a thermometer and i also have a heater that keeps my tank at about 76 degrees regularly. i’ve been told to weekly or bi-weekly change 25-30% of the water and treat again… i have a standard tank light at the top but i usually keep it on because i have the tank in my basement bedroom… does any of this throw a red flag yet?
i bought a few fish the other day… (after i figured the water was safe)… i bought three bala sharks all about 1.5in so far… one pictus catfish about 1.5in-2in so far… and a tiny african cichlid about a half in. so far… and i’ve been feeding them all tetramin tropical flakes and they have a nice cave that they all seem to like…
however, tonight after my second night of having the fish, one of my sharks seemed to be wounded and he died within seconds of me noticing. (mind you i asked about 100,000 questions to the sales person at the store who seemed to know a lot… about food and tank care, aggression) so…
i did a little research about the fish i have and i dont seem to have all the right foods, environment, and even the right fish together… (with fault of the sales person because he told me they’d get along)…
i’ve decided to go back to the store (with my dead bala), get my refund, and buy some bloodworms, brine shrimp, or catfish wafers… another cave and possibly a plant.
also according to my research these fish will eventually grow too large for my tank. my fiance is setting up a tank at his place now that is 55gal and when my fish get too big i’ll move them over (but he’s also a beginner)…
so my question to you is do you think there is anything else i should be doing that i’m not or have yet planned to do?
and what should i do about my fish now? should i give them to him for his bigger tank and buy smaller fish or i can stick with my plan… because i do like them a lot but i want them to be healthy and happy… (AND NO MORE DEAD, WOUNDED FISH!)
any suggestions?
thank you!!!